OlCabour's Hangar

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Star Wars › RC Stardestroyer

Fil des billets

mardi, 20 octobre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Misc assembly

At the back of the neck, the waste ejector is set up, and the gaps filled.

The assembly of the three main engines is prepared with screws. They will be permanently installed once their lighting done.

In the trenches, lateral support posts covers are done with the remaining parts from the cuts. A brass loop is added to facilitate extraction using pliers.

lundi, 19 octobre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Seams work

Many small gaps are filled here and there (trenches, overhead structures, neck), and few details repaired following the numerous manipulations and adjustments.

The (Tie) small bay is installed.

The seams of the large plates are reworked (sanding), the panels lines are re-engraved, and small details (missing after sanding) are redone.

Below, the screws are hide with plastic squares.

mardi, 6 octobre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Discotroyer

Disco atmosphere this time, to work on the discotroyer mirrorballs! :D

Cleaning of casting defects and bubbles of the shield generators.

Adding beams, Evergreen strips for bottom, and (stronger) brass rods on top.

lundi, 5 octobre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Windows

The locations of the windows are marked with a fine felt pen then drilled (there are hundreds ones...)

In some places of the trenches, larger holes are made, because these areas will be more lighted by diffusion through a clear rod. On the original model, some bulb lights can be clealy seen.

Some holes for optical fibers are drilles fruitlessly, as they finish in aluminum U-strip (which cost me a few bits by the way...). They are then filled back with plastic filler.

The slots of the lateral electrical connectors are prepared. They will be used when the model will be hang from the side.

mercredi, 30 septembre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Hangar bay

The hangar bay is built and covered with primer. The small frontal hangar is opened.

I thought there were some bright spots between the tiny ribs, but it was a mistake. The holes that I did for the optical fibers are then sealed with evergren plastic rod.

To bring electricity to the Blockade Runner or Tydirium Shuttle, I install a connector slot from an old computer.
The aluminum cross will be drilled to allow it to go through.

To light the hangar, boxes are built to spread the light through the openings at the top of the vertical side bay walls. The LED are prepared.

Same way to the front opening where the light box is made with evergreen grooved plates to data the illusion of walls of a shed (sorry no photo).

The assembly is reinforced with plastic strips, and with filler glue.

jeudi, 17 septembre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Now on the back

I add wedges (resin remaining parts from the cleaning step) to improve the gluing surface and clog open gaps that appear.

This is then covered with black (spray can).

And the bottom part is installed

The parts (top/bottom) are not really symmetrical (right / left) , and upper and lower plates of the Stardestroyer don't even have the same angle themselves.
So, several runs on the belt sander were required to have a good fit.

mardi, 15 septembre 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Levelling the side trenches

Final catch-up of the heights of the lateral trenches

Some wedges are needed to correct levels, non symmetric details or parts, and adjustments (sanding) trenches to prepare the gluing of the trench lips.

dimanche, 2 août 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Screw assembly

The upper is reassemble with screws, which brings its new adjustments (mainly wedges).

Plates:

The neck.

The front side of main buildings

In an assembly with screws, as there is no assembly instructions (this is not an Ikea furniture), it is important to do a complete dry test to be sure not to end up with impossibilities.

vendredi, 31 juillet 2015

RC Stardestroyer - Neck and upper buildings

I'll take care of the adjustment of the neck, upper buildings and bridge.
It is first made dry, with sanding and adding wedges, maintained with pliers.


I add a PVC L-strip on the rear rib to have a better hold of the neck.

Then the two main parts of the main buildings.

A wooden wedge ensure keeping them on their front side.

Then I go to the higher buildings, where you have to trim the details.

Sometimes there are several millimeters of material to remove...

After numerous runs to the belt sander, thickness is good, but still a wrong angle.

which is resolved after a bath in hot water (which softened the resin and allows it to be reshaped)

And finally the front building. Here too, we must trim the details to insert the part

The angle here is also incorrect

And is adjusted after a run in hot water.



It is also necessary to add plastic strip on neck so the bridge is straight.

mercredi, 29 juillet 2015

RC Stardestroyer - dorsal shell

The thickness of the plates of the upper triangle is also non-uniform.

Belt sander and plastic cards plates then come to the rescue ...

After bonding, they are reinforced with U-shaped aluminum profiles, and new slots are made in the ribs

After many dry tests to properly align the assembly (sanding, adding plastic card and the ribs) the two plates are bonded together: first, few drops of cyano for adjustment, then Pattex 100
% They are then just screwed on the model, not yet stuck, so I could get them off to light the model later.

The back shows a serious gap, filled with a resin bit.

Front, the raised plates are shifted between right and left sides. they will be adjusted later.

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