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mardi, 28 juillet 2015
Par olcabour le mardi, 28 juillet 2015, 23:29 - RC Stardestroyer
To align the lateral trenches, I added an evergreen strips (4mmx2mm) over the entire length, and I then glue with cyano.
The nose is a solid part so it needs to be hollowed to later allow the passage of the optic fibers.
The end of each aluminum tube will later receive a cache that will be realized with cutted part from the trench.
By positioning the upper triangles, trench parts gaps and heigth differences are highlighted.
This is corrected with plastic strips.
Par olcabour le mardi, 28 juillet 2015, 14:36 - RC Stardestroyer
Now that the frame is made, it must be set on the belly shell.
In fact it is the opposite! technically it's the shell that is attached to the frame, but practically, it is similar because they can no longer be dissociated.
Beforehand I strengthens the ribs with 1cm medium wood plates.
In the center, notches are made in the median rib in order to install the U-shaped aluminum profiles that will keep them out straight the triangles. They are glued and screwed.
I begin with the first side :
The second triangle is stuck maintaining the join with tape. Bonding is first performed with cyano then reinforced with Pattex 100%.
Installation of the second aluminum U-profile
At the front, a small piece of wood, shaping the belt sander, is needed.
At the back, the top of the cross is part of the wooden rib and is reinforced with wooden blocks.
The glue used is Pattex 100%. It is solid and remains somewhat flexible. It starts to set after half an hour, but not cured before 2 hours. So the parts need to be hold in place (pliers, tapes...) during curing.
samedi, 25 juillet 2015
Par olcabour le samedi, 25 juillet 2015, 11:02 - RC Stardestroyer
I wanted a metal internal frame to ensure it will support manipulations (transport and convention exhibition) and allowing me to exhibit it under different ways.
The display stand points will be:
- underside, with a table leg (as I did with my 37" Galactica)
- Or by the sides, with square tube being inserted in the lateral trenches
So the internal frame is a cross, made from aluminum square tubes of 2 cm width, riveted together with metal brackets, and a metal plate. The underside is maintained by riveting the table leg.
The materials are so hard I broke 2 hand riveters in this operation!
So it will be very strong 
The center of the rib is cut in order to the cross go through. The rib is then glued and screwed on a first triangle side.
The center of the belly dome is hollow to allow the display stand/table leg to go through.
The edges are dig so that the cross arms of the cross settled well.
lundi, 20 juillet 2015
Par olcabour le lundi, 20 juillet 2015, 23:48 - RC Stardestroyer
It take me over 2 months to prepare the parts: cleaning defaults, filling bubbles (always with the hedgehog method: superglue and small plastic rods) and gaps ...
Some parts were bent and reshaped with a bath of hot water or heat gun.
I had no 0.5mm optic fiber, so I ordered a 6000m roll from China (aliexpress), and was surprised to receive it the next week (I was expecting a 3-5 weeks delay).
The assembly starts with the lower part, so the two large triangles.
Each triangle is made of three parts, which don't have the same thickness...
And putting them back to back, one can see that the two sides are not symmetrical...
The first gap between the two sides is filled with a resin rod (a resin remaining piece from the cleaning step, shapped with a sanding belt machine).
To be sure that the parts are aligned, they are glued in holding them firmly flat on the table (or a wood board) with pliers. A second gap is the thickness of the plates, which is not uniform from one part to another and it needs to be uniformized to facilitate bonding. Therefore, according to places, I glued 1 to 1.5 mm thick plastic cards.
Note, for this type of kit, it is best to have the fixed and portable electrical equipment to go fast: belt sander, band saw, sander, drill, screwdriver, jigsaw ... and a vacuum cleaner for particles and resin dust. So DIY machines and not just modelling machines.
Par olcabour le lundi, 20 juillet 2015, 00:55 - RC Stardestroyer
Randy Cooper Stardestroyer
I made at the beginning of each episode of the original trilogy
I myself symbolizes the power of the Empire
My shape is simple but graphically awfully effective on screen
I impose with my 1600m long
My opponents all have scared to come under my fire
I am ... the StarDestroyer
Although I had some 2 or 3 things left to correct on my Salzo Galactica, I did started the StarDestroyer from Randy Cooper.
This is my favorite ship in the SW saga (the falcon coming in second).
So when Randy Cooper announced that long 90cm kit in early 2008, I quickly positioned and I was among the first buyers.
Ther were some parts missing that Randy sent me quickly.
And so he waited since back then.
This is a rather well detailed kit. I will see if it is well designed during assembly, but I have no doubt it will book me a few surprises!
Parts overview (the metal ruler is 50cm long and the floor tiles are 60cm).
top side:
belly:
Upper buildings:
trenches:
Rear:
The bridge:
There is a slight offset on the neck (which I hope to correct in hot water)
The rest of the parts (shield generators, hangar, nozzles ...)
There is an in scale Blockade Runner.
There are some molding defects : bubbles, gaps, flash, resin drops (!)
It seems thare are also some large area to sand, so a fixed belt sander or a lapidary is strongly advised here.
The internal frame is made of 3 resin parts that I don't feel there are not enough, so I am thinking to replace them with wood and aluminum channels.
The display arms are in two parts which I will replace by a single one (a table leg like on my Salzo Galactica)
It is larger than the Anigrand kit of only 20cm (72cm vs 90cm for the RC), that makes it twice bigger in volume.
despite the size, the RC is, to my point of view, more faithfull in shape and detail to the original ESB model, where the Anigrand is a mix between the ANH and ESB stardestroyer studio models.
On the other side, the Anigrand kit is an easier kit to assemble, and of a better molding (some are close to injected !)
mercredi, 10 décembre 2014
Par olcabour le mercredi, 10 décembre 2014, 16:31 - Y-Wing Clone Wars
Some beauty shots
Par olcabour le mercredi, 10 décembre 2014, 16:20 - Y-Wing Clone Wars
Back to show the end of this assembly.
I had to improve the weathering, which was too soft.
For this, I took gray, black and umber oil paints.
I apply a line of paint on the model, and pull the colors backwards (in the direction of the relative wind) with the finger or a paper towel.
Gradually, I weathered all the parts.
While this was drying, I painted the clone pilots :
and the R2 unit
Then I did tiny white paint chips, which adds a very interesting aspect to the model (but very difficult to shot with the camera)
After bonding the engines along the fuselage, the seats and pilots are installed in the cockpit.
Then the canopy and the R2 unit.
and finally the turret (with a repositionable glue in case of!)
Finished !
mardi, 2 décembre 2014
Par olcabour le mardi, 2 décembre 2014, 12:32 - Battlestar Galactica 37
The Galactica was finished just in time for a convention (NCCS Nancy Collector Ciné Série) in October
vendredi, 28 novembre 2014
Par olcabour le vendredi, 28 novembre 2014, 17:22 - Battlestar Galactica 37
Par olcabour le vendredi, 28 novembre 2014, 15:07 - Battlestar Galactica 37
The painting was flat as is, but as there was a dead line with a convention coming quickly, I had to finish and go to the final assembly. I will return to painting later.
The Viper are mounted on optic fibers and rods plugging in launch tubes.
The optic fibers are cut and the last parts are glued.
Here is the result.
I made a custom carrying case
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